Hugging The Mendocino Coast: Day 4 Of My Northern California Bike Tour

I awoke on the morning of day 4 in Westpoint Union State Park, greeted by a classic California coastal scene visible outside of my tent. From the seaside bluff where my campsite was set up, light fog drifted lazily up from the beach below, cresting in slow-motion waves over my campsite. The warmth of the morning sun poked through the fog here and there, but it was still a little cold and damp at ground level, so I stayed under my vestibule as the morning grew warmer and my tent dried off.

Mendocino is an absolute gem of a town. Like Fort Bragg, the bike paths between the town and the ocean are not to be missed

I was pretty excited about the route that day. This was another relatively short day, and I planned to take my time riding bike-only coastal trails and spending time in the scenic towns of Fort Bragg and Mendocino, among others. I got packed and rode early, as usual.

The partially collapsed road that runs through Westpoint Union State Park used to be either the main road through the state park or Shoreline Highway itself; I was not sure. But the California coast was having its way with the road. The steep cliff down to the ocean was advancing inland over time, causing the road to either break apart as the land underneath it shifted, or completely fall into the ocean dozens of feet below. Where the road was completely gone, hiking/biking trails skirted around the missing sections.

As I continued down the road, I discovered another section of campsites. The camp host had instructed me to stay in the section where I had stayed. But maybe some of the other riders that I had hoped to meet had stayed in this last section. The park didn’t have any specific hike or bike spots, as far as I could tell. This other section was bigger and had more people camping there, but it was still primitive, pit toilet-only camping.

I eventually had to get back on the main road, which meant the occasional fast vehicle that did not move over for me at all, but they were few and far between.

The little village of Westport was the first bit of town of any kind that I had encountered since early the day before. The quaint little hotels were abuzz with activity and people coming and going. I stopped at the market in town and ate a hobbitesque second breakfast since my supplies from the day before didn’t go far enough. The market was a meeting place for people in town, and local gossip was flying fast and thick while I was there. They were very familiar with seeing people riding the coast on bikes and were ready with sandwiches, water, candy, and other goodies.

Back on the road, the rolling terrain to the south clung to the ocean cliffs at times, then it wandered inland to ranches, hilly estates, and groves of eucalyptus and birch trees. In a few places, the trees formed a full canopy over the road, windswept and leaning inland, as if they were planted that way intentionally to serve as a windbreak.

I was enjoying the scenery so much that I missed my “exit” in the little hamlet of Cleone that led me down to a beach trail identified on the map as “Mackerricher State Park Road”. But it was a paved bike trail. I doubled back on the trail and rode the section I had missed so as not to miss any of it.

It was great to be down at the ocean level for the scenery as I rode, but it came at the price of a steady headwind. The trail that began in Cleone continued into Fort Bragg. It did a good job of keeping riders away from traffic, because I missed the city of Fort Bragg completely. So I detoured back into town to make a few planned stops, including a sporting goods store, a bike shop, and the Skunk Train. I wanted to stop at a deli for lunch, but the directions and recommendations I got in town were confusing, at least to my hungry brain, and there was a big construction project on the main street through town. I decided there would be plenty of other opportunities to grab a sandwich farther down the road, so I continued south out of Fort Bragg.

The little town of Caspar turned out to be a cute little village worth a visit. A little market nestled in the Caspar Headlands State Park was where I stopped and ate. As usually happened, getting some calories in me revived me, and I was ready to push on. I kept off the main route and headed to the Cabrillo Lighthouse, which still has a spinning lamp atop it, a shop at the bottom, and homes that were once residences for lighthouse operators, now maintained and available for rent.

Mendocino was the next and final town of the day. This was my night to stay in a hotel. I plan my trips with one night per week in the luxury of a hotel; it is a good chance to get me and my gear really clean and dry. Mendocino is an absolute gem of a town. Like Fort Bragg, the bike paths between the town and the ocean are not to be missed, even if they are not the most efficient way to travel through the area. The coast there was rugged and windswept with few, if any, sandy beaches.

Riding into the village itself, I rode up and down the streets of the downtown area, not wanting to miss any of the quaint shops, museums, and restaurants. I eventually wound my way up the hill to my hotel for the night, and it was a welcome sight indeed. It had no on-site restaurant or laundry. So I rolled back downhill to the local market for what I needed. The locals all knew each other and used the market as much as a meeting place as a place to buy food. No one seemed to be in a big rush. Back in the room, I used the bathtub as a wash basin and hung everything out to dry around the room. I even had internet-quality cell service, something I did not take for granted anywhere during the trip. I did my daily check-in with my family, enjoyed the food from the market, and even did a little video streaming, but I did not last long. Sleep came fast and easily as it always does while bike touring.

Loading map…
Distance
42.15 mi
Elevation gain
+2,062 ft
Elevation loss
−1,951 ft
Max elevation
256 ft
Waypoints
0
Elevation profile

San Diego Coast to Crest Ride. Well, Some Of It

Ken is a great guy. He is the organizer of an occasional bike overnight camp trip in San Diego, using social media to make them happen. If that sounds informal, it is. I missed Ken’s most recent trip: a ride through Carrizo Plain National Monument at the peak of California’s wildflower bloom this year. But then he organized an overnighter on the Coast to Crest Trail in San Diego, and I was able to make it to that.

The Coast to Crest Trail is an ambitious project to link together and expand an existing trail network, creating a 70 mile continuous off pavement trail from Del Mar to Julian, CA. It is not your typical bikepacking fare. It is a credit to the San Diego area to establish a trail like this amidst the urban sprawl, groomed suburban landscapes, established ranches/farms and other infrastructure. At the time I write this, it is about 2/3 done. A section of about 3 miles had just recently opened. That was enough of an excuse to organize a group and ride the whole route.

After a series of emails, Facebook messages, text messages and the like, Ken put the plan together. A group of 6 of us would shuttle or get dropped off in the lovely mountain village of Julian early on the morning of May 5. So our version of the ride was the Crest to Coast trail (reverse of Coast to Crest, get it?), which has the benefit of being a net elevation loss. But even in that direction the trail still features plenty of climbing.

Santa Ysabel Preserve was nothing less than resplendent: it was covered in far more green than usual, it streams flowed with water, and temps were ideal

After a shuttle ride from the beach I met everyone in Julian staging for the ride. The weather was wonderful, everyone was prepared, and after some introductions we were riding.

The ride started well for me, I was feeling strong and climbing better than average. I like to think my recent cross training and weight loss were showing their affects. Early in the ride we made a detour for a photo-op at an entry to a wilderness area, which means by definition bikes were not allowed. But we stopped at the entrance sign then turned around. I must be some kind of local San Diego ritual, I guess.

We wrapped up the early pavement section by turning left into the Santa Ysabel Preserve, which was nothing less than resplendent as it was covered in far more green than usual, its streams flowed with water, and temps were ideal for riding. Which was good since the route did feature some climbing there. We navigated around sandy sections, ruts and cows as we went. I reached the top of one of the early climbs in time to take pics of everyone as they passed by.

We exited Santa Ysabel and regrouped in a meeting that included Carl’s family, which was utterly charming as his young daughter held a gate open for us and made sure Dad had enough water. From there the route took us along the paved Highway 79 and Mesa Grande road. They climbed steadily and did not always offer much of a bike lane or extra space for riders. But traffic was sparse and fairly polite. The paved section ended at a classic backcountry landmark, an abandoned general store in Mesa Grande.

From the General Store we struck out on Black Canyon Road. It is a wide fast gravel road that is covered in, ironically, white gravel. It was a long steady descent that gave us views of a rocky gorge with flowing water (a big deal in these parts) alongside the road in a few places. We regrouped at our right turn onto Santa Ysabel Truck Trail and decided to take a side trip to Lake Sutherland. This is where my energy level started fading fast. The rest of the group powered up the steady climb to Sutherland dam, but I made no effort to keep up. By the time I arrived they had had their fill of the scenery and were ready to head back down. I have seen the lake several times before with the assistance of my motorcycle. It is odd how climbs seem so much bigger on the bicycle.

By the time we hit the truck trail I was needing to get off and walk over the steep sections that trail is dotted with. The group I was riding with was great though. I was not the only one that was fading. Carl and Dan, who were still going strong, did a combination of waiting and taking more challenging options to keep the group together in spite of our widely varying speeds.

Day 1 ended with us setting up a legal wild / dispersed camp on Cleveland National Forest land. Ken had gone out the night before and buried a cache of water, beer and assorted other goodies that was much appreciated by all of us when we got to the end of the day.

We spent the evening drinking, cooking, and sharing food and stories. Interestingly, the middle of our camp turned out to have a hummingbird nest in it. My plan was to camp under the tree, but after the momma hummer buzzed me a few times we saw her tiny nest I relocated my camp site. The group gave the tree and the tiny mommy a little extra space.

While sitting around the campground that night, I casually mentioned that I needed to be at LAX the next day by 5 pm. To my surprise, that remark was greeted by confused looks from everyone. Once they realized I was not joking, they all said there was no way I would be able to do Sunday’s ride and get to LAX by that time. I had looked at the ride profile and figured that day 1 would be the hard day, and day 2 would be a relatively fast descent to the beach. But I found out that day 2 was more difficult than day 1.

So I changed my plans. I would ride with the group for the first part of the day on Sunday, then break off and finish as a road ride into Solana Beach. That would give me more than enough time for my scheduled arrival at LAX.

The next morning I saw once again that we were a pretty compatible group of riders. No one got up super early, waiting around impatiently. And no one had to be awakened while we all stood around geared up and ready to ride. Nice.

Day 2 continued on the Santa Ysabel Truck Trail, and true to my plan, I said good bye to the band of merry men at Highway 78 and continued to Solana Beach on the road by myself. The route I took was gorgeous, but Rancho Santa Fe’s beautiful wood lined rural roads have zero room for cyclists. I should have made my way to a familiar route that included San Diequito Road. But the route I took did feature a lot of new scenery for me so it was good for that.

Also on the ride I encountered the famous Belgian Waffle Ride that was taking place that day. I was not impressed. I was riding in the Lake Hodges area where there were families, children, elderly, etc. The Ride is a race, and not a closed course race, but racers were mixing it up with non racers anyway, and the racers I saw had zero regard for anyone but themselves. They kept going full speed through crowded areas, yelling at other trail users to get out of their way. I didn’t see anyone get hurt and I am sure many of them posted personal records to Strava.

The road into Solana Beach finally sprouted a bike lane, and I descended into the cool sunny beach town where my car was waiting safely in the parking lot where I had left it. Mission complete.

This ride was, among other things, a shakedown for my tour starting June 15 in northern California, including redwood country, Pacific Coast Highway and San Francisco. I presumed that if my bike and I could deal with an off road ride, then we could deal with a road tour. And deal we did. I look forward to that ride now feeling well prepared. And to the next local ride with a bunch of new friends.

Loading map…
Distance
33.41 mi
Elevation gain
+1,650 ft
Elevation loss
−4,821 ft
Max elevation
4,318 ft
Waypoints
0
Elevation profile
Loading map…
Distance
36.31 mi
Elevation gain
+1,674 ft
Elevation loss
−2,458 ft
Max elevation
972 ft
Waypoints
0
Elevation profile

5+ Ways to Make a Super Wide Range 2 x 11 Speed Drop Bar Drivetrain – Only 1 With an Adapter!

Adventure/touring/gravel bikes are great, aren’t they? They allow you to get out on the road and almost hang with the best road bikes out there. They also let you depart from said road and nearly keep up with the best cross country mountain bikes around. This is a great fantasy except for one little gremlin that messes it up. And believe it or not, it is not tires, suspension, or geometry. It is gearing. It would be great if a component group offered gearing nearly as tall as a 53/11 road bike group while also offering a granny nearly as low as a mountain bike group. That is a big ask, to be sure. But if you are willing to tinker a little or get out there on the edge, it can be done.


Wouldn’t it be great if there was a component group that offered gearing nearly as tall as a 53/11 road bike group and a granny nearly as low as a mountain bike group? That is a big ask, for sure.

Before going any farther, I admit I’m a Shimano-biased amateur bike mechanic. I will touch on SRAM a little. Campy doesn’t make an MTB group, so they don’t really play in this arena. So I may miss some options, but I am pretty sure this covers most of the bases. But if not, please feel free to let me know.

In the distant past, there were various ways to make a wide-range drop bar group. A triple road group, i.e., with a 3-chainring crankset, was one way. Mixing and matching road and mountain bike components could also be part of the solution. These options worked great up through 9-speed Shimano. Starting with 10 speed, Shimano began to break this compatibility between its road and mountain groups. Road bike 10-speed shifters no longer worked with 10-speed mountain bike derailleurs. They could work with a 9-speed MTB rear derailleur, but that meant mixing in older components. When Shimano went 11 speed, compatibility was nearly gone. No road shifters worked with any MTB derailleurs, and high-end triple road groups were gone too. Admittedly, the loss of road triple was not a big blow: you could get the same range with new 2×11 speed groups. This was happening at a time when gravel/adventure bikes were rising in popularity, creating demand for a wide-range group that was no longer supported. It seemed component makers were caught off guard.

To understand compatibility between shifters, derailleurs, and gears (cogs/chainrings), it helps to break compatibility into three categories: cable pull, gear capacity, and max gearing.

Cable Pull: This is the amount of cable movement needed to move a derailleur enough to shift one gear. The amount of cable pull that a derailleur needs and the amount that the shifter delivers must be the same. If not, derailleurs will not position the chain centered on the gears.

Gear Capacity: This is the sum of the gear ranges of the cassette and the crankset, expressed in the number of teeth. For example, a compact 50/34T crankset has a range of 16T. An 11/28T cassette has a range of 17T. Used together on a drivetrain, they provide a 33 T capacity. A wide-range drivetrain will have a greater capacity. The chain must be long enough to wrap around the big/big gear combo. When you shift that chain into small/small, there is chain slack to take up. The wider the gear range, the more slack must be taken up. The rear derailleur handles that. The cage (the plates that connect the derailleur pulleys) must be longer to take up more chain slack. Long cages slow down shifting, add weight, and stick out to interfere with the world, so you don’t want a longer cage than needed. Shimano makes 3 cage lengths: SS (short), GS (medium), and SGS (long). In general, SS is for tight ratio road race bikes. GS is for normal 2x gearing, and SGS is for 2x wide range or 3x gear ranges. In the current lineup, Shimano offers SS and GS for road and GS and SGS for mountain. They have never offered an SGS rear derailleur for a current 11-speed road group, which limits the gear range of drop-bar groups.

Max Gear Size and Range: Rear derailleurs have limits on the max size cog they can handle. SRAM’s commonplace 42T big cog will not work with older derailleurs, for example. The mech cannot pivot out far enough to reach the bigger cogs. Sometimes you can move them out farther with adapters or by using long “b tension” bolts. But that can mean the derailleur can’t get close to the small cogs, compromising shifting in that range. Front derailleurs are a little different. The curvature of the shifting plates is designed for different chainring sizes. Shimano’s road derailleurs accommodate this. For example, the newest Ultegra R8000 band-mount front derailleur is offered in L (large) and M/S (Medium/Small) options.

Other compatibility I am going to focus on shifter/derailleur/gear compatibility, but that is not the whole picture. As if it were not enough to get the components all working together on paper, they must all work together when bolted onto a frame and under power. Putting a modern road bike crank on a mountain bike may not go well. Integrated spindles may not be wide enough. That can sometimes be solved by using older BBs/cranksets where the spindle was part of the BB, like good ol’ square taper or Octalink. Putting a road bike crankset on a mountain bike may work at the bottom bracket, but the frame may not have enough clearance for the rings or a good place to mount the front derailleur. Road front derailleurs are bottom pull only, so keep that in mind. Chainline is another matter. The width of the spacing at the rear may move the cassette inboard or outboard far enough to make cross-chaining even worse than normal and even affect 2 or 3 gears at the extremes. If you start to consider plus-side tires or fat bikes, you may have tire clearance between the chain and frame to consider.

Fortunately, amidst all of the turmoil of ever changing bike drivetrain technology, there is usually a way for us outliers to make a group that gives us all of the features we want.

So for the options below, let’s presume you have the other compatibility issues sorted, i.e., look at shifter/derailleur/gear compatibility. I have built bikes using options 1-4 below, so I know they work.

#1: Make a Franken-derailleur. I have found two ways to do this. Number one: hack a Shimano 105 5800 rear derailleur and a Shimano LX T670-SGS rear derailleur. This is documented well here. Remove the long cage from the LX and install it on the 105, and voila, an SGS 11-speed road derailleur! That solves the cable pull and capacity issue. To solve the max-gear issue, you may have to use the upside-down b-tension screw trick, or use a derailleur hanger extension like the Wolf Tooth Road Link. Number two: Same hack but mix a Shimano GRX rear derailleur with an M8000 XT SGS long cage. I have not tried this one myself, but it is demonstrated in this video.

Pros: Relatively simple, no adapters needed.

Cons: You may have to tear apart a derailleur in ways you never have before. The older derailleurs have no shadow low profile or adjustable clutch, so for off-road use you might get a lot of old-school banging around of the derailleur. Small cog shifting feels numb and slow. And the derailleurs are a little on the heavy side, if that matters to you. The newer GRX/M8000 looks more promising.

#2 SRAM To The Rescue! SRAM offers a clean solution: Their 11-speed drop-bar shifters are compatible with their 10-speed mountain-bike rear derailleurs and 11-speed mountain-bike front derailleurs. I had SRAM Rival shifters, an X-9 10-speed clutch rear derailleur (a rare beast), and a GX 11-speed front derailleur, and it worked like a charm. Other combos will work. If you are not trying to make existing Shimano components work and you can go all SRAM, this is a good option.

Pros: Lots of component options, easy compatibility, no hacking or adapters needed.

Cons: Limited to 10-speed rear derailleurs, not the latest and greatest.

#3 Cable Pull Adapters: Mix Shimano road shifters and an MTB derailleur with a cable pull adapter. I know of 2: the JTEK Shiftmate 8/8A and the Wolf Tooth Tanpan.

Pros: You can use any 11-speed MTB derailleur you want, which means current models.

Cons: Adapters do add complexity to the cable routing. Surprisingly, if there are no other problems in the cable run, they do not affect shifting. But any problems, like kinks in cables, gunk or corrosion in the cables and housing, etc., will all be magnified by an adapter. I like the Tanpan better. The set screw and internal routing keep the cable from unwinding in the adapter. The adapters aren’t cheap, but most of these drivetrains mean some added cost.

#4: Go Electronic. Shimano allows mixing road shifters and MTB derailleurs with their Di2 groups. SRAM may allow the same, but, well, I am a Shimano guy, remember? 2nd Gen Di2 did not initially allow the mixing and matching of components, but a later firmware update added that ability. You are limited to using both derailleurs as mountain bike components; i.e., you cannot use a Ultegra front derailleur and an XTR rear derailleur. I am not sure about first-gen Di2 either; if you want to consider that, you have some homework to do, sorry.

Pros: Di2 shifting. If you have not experienced it and you don’t have the money for it, do NOT ride Di2. Electronic shifting is not a gimmick or small evolution over mechanical shifting. It is a true game changer.

Cons: The same con as always for electronic shifting: the price. Now that we have 2nd- and 3rd-generation electronic shifting systems, you can find deals on older parts or bikes if you are patient. That is how I did it.

#5 Lose the Brifter. Presumed in all of these options is the use of “brifters” (combined brake shifter) and indexed shifting. If you consider bar end shifters that offer a friction mode, you open a whole new world of options. You need to keep them in friction mode all the time. That means losing the clicks in your shifting and learning to shift by feel: a skill that has been lost in the history of cycling for most. But given how you might want to use a bike like this, it does have its appeal. Almost any shifting problems you encounter with a friction shift bike can be overcome by your own skill, on the fly, anywhere in the world, without special tools or parts. Sounds like an adventure bike spec to me.

Pros: Eliminates the cable-pull issue and uses a simpler drivetrain.

Cons: Friction shifting is not for everyone.

#6 (ish) Hope for other options. If Shimano offered a long-cage GRX or Ultegra derailleur, that would be the de facto way to go. We can hope. Shimano has also introduced 12-speed mountain bike groups, but not 12-speed for road. Yet. Perhaps when they do, the cable pull of the road shifters will match the MTB derailleurs, and we can have the mechanical mix-and-match nirvana of 9-speed. Farther out on the horizon, maybe a 1x group one day will deliver this kind of range. But we are talking about maybe a 9/60 cassette with 13 or 14 speeds (to get decent gear spacing). A new player in the component scene, Rotor, has introduced a 13-speed group. And Shimano has patents on 14-speed components.

So one constant going forward: change. Fortunately, amid all the turmoil of ever-changing bike drivetrain technology, there is usually a way for us outliers to make a group that gives us all the features we want.

Ride For Rwanda 2019 50 Mile Route Flyover

I am going to join the Ride For Rwanda this year as I have for many years. For more info, see https://rwandaride.com. For some charity rides I participate in, I create a “virtual flyover” video using a handful of tools at my disposal, like Google Earth, a video editor, some free music, etc. They are fun and easy to make, and the event coordinators always seem happy to have them. So for this year’s ride, check out the video!

Commuting, Riding for Charity, Mountain Biking, Vlogging, Episode 1

I like to use multiple social media formats to share my riding experiences. Blogging is great for going into details. I love capturing moments in pictures. But I also have fun making videos of my adventures. I have a YouTube channel called, shockingly, Two Wheel Lifestyle. 

My YouTube channel has a lot of motorcycle content, but I’ve started adding some bicycle videos too. BTW, I hate referring to bicycles as such, but when you talk about motorcycles and bicycles together, you can’t call either one a bike. Such a pain, right? 

So now that I am mixing bicycles and motorcycles on my YouTube channel, I want to mix my YouTube channel with my blog. Where will it end? The nice thing about putting my YouTube videos here is that I can write a little more about them. Yes, I could write more descriptions on YouTube, but let’s face it: people don’t go to YouTube to read. That’s what blogs are for. But a little extra eye candy in a blog might be a good thing; time will tell. So, here are my latest YouTube videos.

In this video, I am using a format I am blatantly copying from motovlogger royaljordanian (“Motovlog” is a common term for “motorcycle video log,” crunched down and self-explanatory). It is not a format I plan to use all the time, but it works well for certain things. This was shot on my ride around Arroyo Trabuco in Orange County, riding my Diamondback Carbon Haanjo 7C, a drop-bar gravel/adventure bike that’s very much at home on fire roads and can handle some singletrack as well.

I was surprised how well the mountain lion sign was captured by my Hero GoPro 7 Black, and the zoom effect was fun. The “rock quarry” was a handful on the Haanjo. They are called gravel bikes, not rock bikes, for a reason. The steep rise out of the “quarry” is steeper than it looks, and I don’t always make it. This was a ride of a few hours, and it seems that whenever you ride that long, you stumble across some special event somewhere. This time it was the classic/custom car parade at O’Neill Regional Park. Those cars are impressive enough when you see one on display, and seeing a huge group driving around takes the experience up a notch. I also liked that I was faster than they were. Finally, the section of trail I call “The Jungle” is a great bit of singletrack; I don’t think I have ever cleaned the whole thing. So I was happy that I had the camera running when I did.

This video combines several rides. The first few are from my commute. Of all the people to cut me off, the city bus driver seems unlikely. They are usually among the most courteous drivers, which is good considering the size of their vehicles. But I managed to dispatch him shortly after being cut off, then kept outmaneuvering other cars in heavy traffic. The shadow of the semi struck me as pretty impressive while I was riding; I was happy that it translated to video pretty well. The drama of something like that is often lost when shrunken down to the screen. I was experimenting with various video formats, so they may look mismatched in this compilation, but I am settled on 1080P 60HZ and a normal wide angle for now. The GoPro makes great content at that setting.

The rest of the video is from my Multiple Sclerosis charity ride. I had a great 2 days of riding and knocked out 100 miles. I usually go for longer distances, but this year my training focused on speed, not endurance, and I enjoyed keeping up a faster pace. 

Cycling Tour of Big Sur / Central Coast California

In May 2017, the Mud Creek Slide came crashing down on Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) in California, turning an 80-mile section of highway with no exits into two separate 10-mile and 50-mile dead-ends. As bad as that sounds, the details made it even worse. Additional slides and a bridge failure isolated the tiny and beautiful village of Big Sur. Months later, after a flurry of construction and repair, all the damage on PCH except Mud Creek was repaired.

But in the midst of disaster was also opportunity. I realized that the closure would dramatically reduce vehicle traffic along the coast, making a potentially good situation for cyclists riding the area. But there was the matter of circumventing literally a million tons of earth burying the road 40 feet deep. Add the construction equipment and workers busy rebuilding the road, and it posed a formidable obstacle for a lone rider on a bicycle. I kept up with the situation online. Reports said cyclists crossed the slide at night, defying the closure and the law. While I wanted to ride the route, a midnight poach in the dark by myself was not for me. I found a local tour company called Central Coast Outdoors that shuttled cyclists around the closure. The price seemed steep, but it was way cheaper than Uber for the same thing. I thought about it for a few days and decided the opportunity to ride the coast with low traffic was worth it, so I began preparations.

I booked a flight on JetBlue to San Jose and planned to ship my bike to a nearby FedEx Office using bikeflights.com. I busted out my favorite bike ride planning site, ridewithgps.com, and began planning my routes for each day. I reserved a room for one night at the Radisson in Santa Maria with plans and gear to camp every other night of a 9-day, 8-night journey. I reserved a site at the only campground that needed it. All of my other camping would be at California State Park Hike-or-Bike sites, which were all first come / first served / no reservation sites. And finally, I reserved an Amtrak ride home that allowed people to bring their bikes on the train. BTW, I am not sponsored by anyone, but I do like to share resources I find useful for other riders or anyone else interested.

I bike toured PCH on a similar trip many years ago. While the trip was great, I realized afterward that I had focused on the distance and speed of my riding. That is one way to approach cycle touring, to be sure. But this time, I decided to focus instead on relaxing, sightseeing, and getting to know fellow travelers. So, as I planned each day’s ride for this trip, I reduced the mileage I rode each day compared to my first trip.

To be honest, I overprepared for the trip. I was so excited that I spent too many hours poring over routes and fine-tuning them, reading updates online, and anticipating the trip details. By overpreparing, I mean that I was a little burned out before I even started riding. I was beginning to doubt whether I would enjoy the ride at all. Plus there were the normal pre-ride jitters and worries. Would I get a cold just before or during the ride? What if my frame cracked? Would I forget something critical? Was I in good enough condition for such a ride?

I did get a few fellow travelers to snap a pic of me, too.

Of course, I went ahead with the ride, starting on the Saturday the week before Memorial Day 2018 and riding through to the following Sunday of Memorial Day weekend. Day 1 presented me with more than its fair share of problems. But I overcame them all, found myself well able to handle the rigors of daily riding, and went on to have a great trip.

Actually, “great trip” does not begin to capture what the trip became. I had days of riding in idyllic conditions, met wonderful people with great stories to tell, and I “rode myself into shape,” as the expression goes, and felt stronger and stronger as the days passed.

What started as a trip where I worried I might quit early turned into a ride I was sad to see end. In the days after the ride, I felt like I was living in an afterglow, my mind drifting back to daydreams of the ride, already planning the next tour, and having a hard time focusing on my daily responsibilities.

As far as my blog goes, in the coming days and weeks I will post a blog for each day of the trip, documenting my route and experiences in more detail. I hope they will be helpful to others who ride the route. But I also hope to capture the experience for me forever, so I can recall the feelings of the ride and daydream about a once-in-a-lifetime experience over and over again.

On The Passing of American Classic Wheels

Last week I was commuting to work on my lightweight race bike. I have a commuter bike, but it was undergoing an upgrade and in pieces in my workshop. On the final leg of my ride, I crossed a pedestrian plaza and came back out into a quiet parking lot. I was riding slow with my head on a swivel and WHAM! My front tire hit a newly placed concrete parking stop. I should have had a bobble head motion to go with the swivel, I guess. My bars rotated down in the stem; I came unclipped, and I thought I was going to lay it down, but I managed to coast away from it.

To order new rims I went to American Classic’s website but I found it oddly only half there.

But my beloved American Classic (AC) Sprint 350 front wheel had taken a fatal blow. One side of the rim was bent, but otherwise it was still true, round, and dished. I took it home that night and gently bent it back into shape as best I could. But under hard braking at speed, I could feel the bend in the rim; there was no fixing it. It was living on borrowed time and probably dangerous to use for long.

After I got done kicking myself for not seeing a great big parking stop (for cryin’ out loud, man!) I got myself excited about replacing my non-tubeless rims with new road tubeless AC rims.

To order new rims I went to American Classic’s website but I found it oddly only half there. Many links were not links, and not only were the rims I wanted out of stock, but everything was out of stock. I got a bad feeling in the pit of my stomach and did a web search for AC news and sadly discovered they were closing down and going out of business. The process had started 8 months ago. How had I not heard about this in any of my social media bike feeds? There is barely anything about it on the web, so I wanted to weigh in.

AC was my favorite wheel brand. I have owned Hurricanes, Sprint 350s, 101s, and have laced up many wheels myself using their rims and hubs. Bill Shook, the main man at AC, never subscribed to proprietary integrated wheel system design. The wheels used hubs designed for standard j-bend spokes. Even the nipples, while not completely standard, could be adjusted with a regular spoke wrench and had some nice advantages. 

I particularly liked the design of the Sprint 350 wheelset. The rim they used was the lightest aluminum rim I could find: 350 grams, hence the name of the wheels. But the wheels were very strong overall because they used 32 spokes. The net effect was moving the rotating mass in closer to the center of the wheel, reducing rotational inertia. Higher spoke counts also made the wheels easier to build and maintain because they gave you finer grain control over the shape of the rim.

No other wheel maker takes this approach. I know because I tried to source comparable replacement rims from different companies.  The only rims I could find were much heavier, like 100g heavier, or were drilled for a low spoke count. 

AC also had a unique take on hub design, with high flanges, a unique, low-rolling-resistance engagement design, and many other details.

The news I read was that AC wanted to sell its intellectual property and Bill Shook was available for consulting. I hope another wheelmaker picks up some of AC’s ideas and designs.

In the end, AC was a small company compared to the other big manufacturers. Integrated designs seem to be dominating the high-end wheel market, which isn’t good for a do-it-yourself person like me. While this may be the end of the road for American Classic, I hope it is not the end of Bill Shook’s designs or ideas.

Cycle Tour San Jose to Santa Cruz, Lost on the Freeway, and CPAP Crisis

Day one of my tour turned out to have many of the problems I was afraid it might have. But a defining trait of an adventurer is how you deal with the problems that will inevitably happen. If you react by wishing you had luxury accommodations, panicking, or giving up, you are probably not an adventurer. But if you keep your wits about you, fix the problems with whatever duct tape and baling wire you have available, and proceed as best you can with a good attitude, you’re on the right track. You show the traits of a true adventurous spirit, at least according to my not-so-humble opinion.

So where and when did the journey actually begin? It could have been when I stopped riding my touring bike as a commuter and started packing. It could have been before that, when I decided to do the ride. But for the sake of telling the story, let’s say it started in Long Beach, CA. My wife dropped me off at Long Beach Airport, a tiny international airport in the Los Angeles metro area. I had already shipped my bike: it was waiting for me in a box at a FedEx location near my flight destination in San Jose, hopefully not damaged or lost, despite what the tracking information told me. I was carrying a piece of bike luggage, a plastic bag of supplies, and I was wearing my travel/riding clothes and bike shoes. I did not want to deal with luggage, and my bike shoes with cleats were the only footwear I was bringing.

One item in my carry-on luggage was a CPAP machine. Without it, I don’t get deep sleep and eventually end up feeling like I have not been sleeping at all. I had hoped to use a substitute called Provent, which are fancy bandages to cover your nostrils. Carrying them instead of a big CPAP machine would have been a big win. But I tried the Provents before the ride, and they didn’t work for me like they used to. I was disappointed to have to carry the bulky machine and battery, but I had done it before on a bike tour. And I brought the Provents anyway.

But the problems that swirled around the CPAP machine had just started. After boarding the plane and getting comfortable, I mentally went over my checklist of what I had packed for the umpteenth time. I realized that I had forgotten one of the cables needed to run the CPAP machine. It was a small disaster. The pile of hardware I had packed to run the CPAP was useless without that cable. I started breaking down the situation. There was no way to buy the cable I needed. Maybe I could make a replacement cable myself. I looked for electronics supply stores along my route. There were lots of permanently closed Radio Shack locations. I found a Fry’s Electronics, but there was no guarantee they would have the parts I needed to fabricate a replacement cable even after shopping them online.

I tried to relax and take things one step at a time so I wouldn’t get into such a terrible mood that I couldn’t think clearly or enjoy whatever the trip turned into. The next point on the trip where I could do anything about this would be at the electronics store. I had done all I could for now. I managed to stop obsessing on the problem and enjoy the flight.

On the ground, I called a Lyft ride that turned out to be free after I applied the discount the airline gave me. My driver dropped me off at the FedEx location, where my undamaged bike was. The small victory improved my attitude.

I used the packing area as a bike assembly area. While there, a fellow rider introduced himself. He told me he was planning to bicycle tour across Cambodia, Thailand, Australia, and New Zealand. He noticed my CPAP and told me he had a friend who rode and needed to use one. Seeing me travel with a CPAP meant that he would not accept his friend’s excuse about not traveling with him because of his CPAP. did not go into detail about the issue I was having with my machine for both our sakes. It took me a while, but I was ready to go.

Another small issue cropped up as I pushed the bike across the store. had decided at the last minute to fit a water bottle cage and bottle on the bottom of my down tube. The problem is that only the smallest water bottles fit in that spot. The bottle I brought rubbed my front tire. After some consideration, I decided to throw the water bottle out. It was frustrating, but I was already dealing with enough issues, and the idea of packing a water bottle in my luggage to avoid throwing it out was too much to wrestle with at the moment.

But the problems just kept coming. stood over my bike, got started, and turned on the GPS to load my route for the day. scrolled through the list of routes I had carefully crafted for each day. They were all there, except for my route for that day. had made some small last-minute changes; I must have deleted it in my GPS without loading its replacement. And the day’s route was a tangle of interconnecting urban roads and paths, not a simple “ride down Highway 1.” But I had a backup plan: I used my phone as my GPS. The phone used a lot of battery power when in navigation mode, so I might have to charge it mid-day, but I could deal with that.

The electronics store was only a few blocks away. It took a while to find and select the odd parts. decided to wait until I was in the campground with everything unpacked to make the cable.

The weather was beautiful: sunny and cool. was excited by the first part of the ride because it was on a network of dedicated urban bike paths: Guadalupe River Trail and Los Gatos Creek Trail.

Navigating by phone was a bit of a pain. I did not have a good way to mount it where I could see it. would look at it to get the next few turns, ride that far, then look at it again. I made a few wrong turns that way but nothing terrible. On the main bike paths, I just followed the signed route.

While riding the bike paths, especially through San Jose, I was completely amazed at the pedestrian traffic. There was a lot of it, but the crazy part was phone usage. Being as rational as possible about it, I estimate that out of hundreds of pedestrians I saw in the congested sections of San Jose, 95% of them were walking with their eyes down, locked on their phones, and that includes individuals, groups, people with dogs on leashes, etc. They were completely unaware of my presence on a trail where bikes were legal; I had to swerve all over the place to avoid them, often off of the trail and on the grass. It was a gorgeous sunny day, and I suspect most were probably annoyed by the sun causing glare on their screens. We need to identify a thing called “distracted walking” on multi-use trails. It is dangerous and rude. It forces other trail users to deal with whatever random things a distracted walker is doing. It is hard to deal with because they don’t know what they are doing themselves. was happy to get out of the crowded section of San Jose.

My route took me along a dirt section of Las Gatos Creek Trail. Later, I realized I could have avoided much of it by riding the long way around a reservoir, but even my narrow 28c tires were OK there.

My failure to follow my GPS directions eventually led to a disastrous error. While riding a frontage road along Highway 17, I decided the directions said to enter Highway 17 south at Bear Creek Road. This was an error of epic proportions. Highway 17 is a freeway with no shoulder for much of it, is extremely narrow, has high-speed traffic, and has a concrete wall divider between the oncoming lanes. entered a section where I was climbing and moving slowly. I have ridden freeways before, even not-so-legal sections, but nothing like this. After riding for about a mile and a half with cars honking at me like crazy, I pulled into a turnout and looked at my GPS. In a word, I was screwed. couldn’t cross the road and go back the way I came because of the concrete wall and the sheer amount of traffic. could not go back the way I came because I would be riding head-on into oncoming traffic with no shoulder. There was no way out of the turnout I was in: no roads or trails led away from it. nd the route I wanted was back the way I came. Going forward would take me far off my route, even if I wanted to brave it, which I did not.

As I looked around the edges of the turnout for dirt paths and didn’t find one, I saw a highway patrol drive by. I slowly realized that they would be my only way out. waited a while for another one to show up, but no luck. I finally gave in and called for rescue. described my predicament to 911, and in relatively short order I met Officer Booker (that is her real name; I am honestly not making that up), who showed up in a large SUV with room for my bike, just as I had requested. After telling her how happy I was to see her and thanking her profusely, I told her that I just wanted off of that road; anywhere would do. also told her I really just wanted back on the other side of the road to pick up where I left off. left the turnout, and I expected her to take the next exit and wish me luck. But she made a pretty difficult U-turn on the road where the concrete wall had a gap and returned me to right where I said I wanted. I got no ticket for riding a bicycle on the freeway (they may have actually been legal there; the sign only said no pedestrians), no lectures about bicycle safety, none of that. She even posed for a picture. I pulled my bike out, unable to thank her enough, and continued on the correct route. Mostly anyway.

My route continued on Old Santa Cruz Highway, Summit Road, and Soquel Santa Cruz Road, which included a nice climb through coastal redwoods and a descent to the coast and my urban coastal campground destination, New Brighton State Beach. The few small wrong turns I made paled in comparison to my Highway 17 debacle. Due to my shenanigans, I had to cut the ride short. I had planned a loop around Santa Cruz. Maybe next time.

 

Once at the campground, I unpacked only what I needed so I could work on the CPAP cable with as much daylight as possible. But it wasn’t to be. The cheesy battery-powered soldering iron I bought could not generate enough heat to melt butter, let alone solder. As a test, I touched the battery wires to the plug I got to fit the CPAP to see if it would power it up anyway. But no luck. The plug I bought fit the CPAP, but it still wasn’t the right connector, which wasn’t surprising given the nature of medical equipment. I gave up on the idea of fixing the CPAP and decided to try the Provents one more night. If they didn’t work, I would ride back to Salinas, cut the trip short, and catch a train home from there. I did not want to ride for days with effectively no sleep; that would be too dangerous.

When I finally looked up from my CPAP project, Johan from Belgium greeted me and offered me some of his strawberries, which I happily accepted. I later offered Johan some sliced cucumber. I think I got the better end of the trade, but it was all I had to offer. Johan had flown into Los Angeles and was on his way to San Francisco, then on to Yosemite, the eastern Sierras, and many other great California destinations before returning to L.A. to fly home. I tried to talk him into adding Death Valley to his route; it would have been a good time of year, but the idea made him pretty uncomfortable, and he didn’t want to give up anything else on his already full schedule.

John was also at the Hike or Bike site. I did not see him until the next morning, but I should have gotten up to see him in the middle of the night. That night I tried sleeping with the Provents. I woke up with one no longer attached. R ther than give up and go back to “sleep” without it, I forced myself to get up and replace the one that fell off.  That improved things a lot for me. I slept so well that I barely woke up when the campsite was overrun by bright vehicle headlights and guys walking around talking and using what sounded like police radios.

The next morning, feeling well rested, I met John. He had a bloody gauze wrap on his knee. He had an accident with a car the night before that was his own fault. The police had come by the campground in the middle of the night to return his bike to him. J hn worked at Specialized bike company in nearby Morgan Hill, so naturally we talked about his accident, riding, and bikes for a long time.

New Brighton, like many urban campgrounds, has strict limits on hike-or-bike sites. You can only stay one night, and you have to leave by 9:00 am. This helps control the homeless problem. I support such measures; it allows the park to keep offering Hike or Bike sites. A homeless shelter is very different from a campground.

Because of all my carousing with the locals, I pushed a little past the 9:00 departure time. And sure enough, the very friendly camp host who was watching our schedules stopped by. But as I said, I support such efforts. Thankfully, I had the route for day 2 in my GPS, as expected, and a good night’s sleep behind me. Maybe this trip would work out OK after all.

Loading map…
Distance
46.58 mi
Elevation gain
+2,514 ft
Elevation loss
−2,342 ft
Max elevation
1,686 ft
Waypoints
0
Elevation profile

 

Cycle Tour Santa Cruz to Monterey, A Coastal Smorgasbord

Day two of my trip began with my resolve not to put my head down and hammer out a fast ride, but to take my time and stop to explore what I saw along the way. My first chance to exercise that was only a few miles in as I passed Seacliff State Beach. It featured a pier with a sunken ship at the end. It is a concrete ship that its owners intentionally sank at the end of the pier.

As I left the park, riders from an organized ride joined me. I asked what the event was called, but I couldn’t understand them. Was it the seven-something ride, maybe? I stayed with the ride for a long time. I rode slower than everyone else, which gave me the chance to meet many of them. A few recognized my bikepacking bags and touring setup and gave me a thumbs up or asked where I was going. Our paths finally diverged, and I still had a lot of riding left.

I loved the contrast between the rural farmland and the exotic coastline, with dunes and surf in the distance. My version of farmland comes from growing up in the Midwest, with flatlands and crops as far as the eye could see in all directions. Seeing farmland on the coast with an ocean breeze blowing and set among a hilly landscape was a mix of worlds that did not seem to fit together, yet there they were. Seeing those worlds juxtaposed never stopped amazing me.

I originally planned to make it to Cannery Row for lunch, but my stomach had other ideas, and I needed to eat much earlier. But endless farmland offered little in the way of places to eat.

I gave in and stopped at the first fruit stand/gas station I saw. They had a small supply of a lot of things, as markets in the middle of nowhere often do, including enough for lunch. The gas station offered a picnic table on the edge of the asphalt pad as the only place to have lunch. I refused to eat in a gas station parking lot, especially when my original plans were to eat somewhere nice. The nice woman at the counter told me there was a place with some picnic tables a few miles down the road.

I don’t know which place she meant, because a few miles down the road was the lovely city of Moss Landing, and it offered many scenic spots to enjoy lunch. Highway 1 returned to the coast in this area, where an ecosystem called a slough begins. Like a coastal swamp, it is a delightful meeting of dunes, ocean surf, inland waterways, unique foliage, and marine mammals. It has its very own distinct exotic beauty among the many places I saw on my ride. I found a place near a marina to pull over and eat lunch.

From Moss Landing, the bike route turned inland again, and the coastal winds picked up. Sometimes a little in my favor, sometimes a bit of a headwind, they were nearly always from the side. And when the route turned directly into them, my pace slowed quite a bit, but thankfully that didn’t happen much. The route into Monterey turned into a dedicated bike path starting way outside of town, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, which was impressive and wonderful to ride.

The path turned from a remote coastal route into a heavily traveled urban trail pretty suddenly. And what a great route it was. It took me past all the main sights you might want to see in Monterey along the coast, including Cannery Row, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, and, of course, Light and Motion bicycle lighting company. I received no promotional fees for this blog. But I wouldn’t object if I did.

I decided not to cook, and I had a hankering for a big deli sandwich. After searching for delis, I decided on International Deli in Monterey. When I got there, I discovered it was an Iraqi deli, not the sandwich kind of deli I had in mind, but it had good reviews and looked wonderful, so I rolled with it. I ordered the chicken shawarma because it looked great. I could not help but laugh at myself for feeling like Ironman. I hate it when people make movie references I don’t know, so search for Avengers shawarma if you need to. Once again, I had crammed too much in the day, so I decided to trim the 17-mile drive from my schedule. I packed my shawarma away and made the big climb to Veteran’s Park so I could enjoy it at my campsite. If you do the ride, make sure you fit the 17-mile drive into your schedule. I have seen it before, so I was OK.

When I got to the campground, I saw lots of biker tents but no bikers. Some tents did have bikes next to them. It looked creepily abandoned. “Are they all homeless?” I mused to myself, but I knew better. I set up camp and enjoyed the chicken shawarma. I had asked for some extra veggies, and they had obliged. Even though it had gotten tossed around a lot on the way to the campground, it was still wonderful.

I settled in, and it got dark early in the heavy overcast weather. The only lights I traveled with were a headlamp and my phone. The headlamp had an unexpected effect: the eyes of any critters looking at you reflect at you eerily. But, being critters, they don’t realize this, and think they are being super stealthy and you can’t see them. While walking to the showers after dark, I had a creature of unknown species following me with its gaze for a while. It made me uncomfortable, and I even tried to shoo it away. After amusing myself with a series of strange noises, a good old raspberry noise finally vexed whatever was stalking me, and it scampered away.

I fell asleep hard before 9 pm. I heard some bikers arrive later, and once again my eye mask and earplugs were very helpful. I was hoping to meet them in the morning.

I woke up well rested and realized I was sleeping well with my CPAP substitute breathing aids. This was a great development. I was concerned I wouldn’t be able to sleep well with them and might even have to cut my ride short. But that morning I committed to completing the ride as planned.

It was damp and cold: so damp it looked like it may have rained in the night. But if it did, the noise of the rain on the tent was not enough to wake me. It always amazes me how warm a tent can keep you, even though it is only a couple of thin sheets of nylon. My tent was a lightweight model with very thin nylon, and it still kept me cozy. I stayed in the protection of my vestibule to make myself a cup of coffee while the morning fog cleared up.

All of us cyclists eventually came out of our tents to say hello. Alex was riding around the PCH closure via a route that included King City. I couldn’t talk him into splitting the shuttle around the mud slide with me. I later encountered him on Facebook. He continued to ride long after my one-week trip ended, posting real-time updates.

Michael was an eBike enthusiast and, in my own words, a semi-vagabond. He was touring on a utility bike that was his own custom eBike creation. I had experimented with making eBikes a long time ago. I was surprised how literate I still was. Mike and I talked a long time about the state of eBikes. When I told him that I was sleeping consistently without my CPAP machine, he gave me the idea to ship the CPAP back home. I would have probably figured it out myself, but he probably saved me a couple of days of hauling it around.

Thaddeus, a total vagabond by his own admission, also joined us but declined to have his pic taken. I wasn’t sure if Thaddeus was a nickname or not, but his off-the-grid lifestyle was fascinating. Tim, the park ranger, checked in, trying to figure out who hadn’t paid their $6 camp fee.

I had to tear myself away from the great conversation if I wanted a relaxed ride to Big Sur. I talked as I packed and wished everyone well as the conversations continued. Damp fog had given way to low clouds, and it looked like a great day for a ride.

Loading map…
Distance
47.00 mi
Elevation gain
+1,843 ft
Elevation loss
−1,501 ft
Max elevation
427 ft
Waypoints
0
Elevation profile

Cycle Tour Monterey to Big Sur, a Day of Photos

Day three of my tour would be a relatively short ride from Monterey to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. I liked that it would be a short ride so it would give me time to take lots of pictures of this very scenic area.

I got a late start because I spent time fraternizing with fellow riders at Veteran’s Park in Monterey. The ride into the park the night before was a nasty climb to the top of a hill. But the ride out of the park and back to Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) still managed to offer more climbing. I had skipped the scenic 17 Mile Drive the day before, but I did ride the last few miles of it that morning.

The two bananas I had at the campground wouldn’t sustain me for long. I stopped early in the day at the last plaza offering services until I arrived in Big Sur later that day. I stop at that plaza every time I pass by, no matter my mode of travel, be it by car, motorcycle, or bicycle. The road around it was under construction, and it made ingress and egress by bike a little interesting. I found a cute breakfast place where the host seated me near an outlet so I could charge all of my accessories while I ate. The solar panel I brought didn’t help much in the heavy cloud cover along the coast.

The useless solar panels made me realize that my attitude toward the weather had changed. My mood used to depend on it. If I did not get sunny, calm, temperate weather, I was disappointed. But on this trip, I ran into a lot of cloudy, damp weather, albeit no rain. And it did not put a damper on my spirits (pun intended). It was a very liberating change.

The local Post Office was close by, and I stopped to ship items I didn’t need back home, including my CPAP machine and an extra water bottle mount. You can read about the dramas associated with each of those items in earlier blogs. After a quick stop at a market, I continued south. Leaving that plaza is always a bit dramatic for me. I consider it an outpost, a last bastion of civilization, the beginning of the rugged section of Big Sur, even though you are still in Carmel for a short while and there are good places to get supplies along the coast.

PCH south of Carmel had less room on the road for bikes than I remember from my last trip. Signs label the road as a bike route. And California has a relatively new law requiring motorists to give cyclists a minimum of 3 feet as they pass. But I think most people are unaware of the law. And it only helps so much on PCH. California law does not allow drivers to cross the double yellow line to give cyclists that space; instead, it instructs drivers to slow down. On much of the coast, there is no room to give cyclists that much space in the lane; there is nearly always a double yellow line, and almost no one slows down. So it was pretty much business as usual, dicing it up with cars.

Traffic was light, but I had hoped the closure on PCH farther south would reduce traffic more than it did. The number of cars did taper off as I went, and I was thankful for it. By traveling before Memorial Day, the number of large recreational vehicles (RVs) was also very low. RVs on that road can be pretty exciting for cyclists.

I have traveled this coast many times by car, motorcycle, and bicycle. It has been captured countless times in photographs and every conceivable artistic medium. As I traveled along the road, I felt the surreal sensation of moving through a living painting or sculpture, becoming part of the art myself. I imagined the hills rendered in brush strokes, the road portrayed in stippling, or the ocean as a large glass sculpture. I pictured myself in the third person, portrayed in the same media as my surroundings: the structure of bridges becoming rough welded brass, captured in perfectly lit black-and-white photography, or made abstract in watercolor. I have never seen cyclists traveling this road rendered artistically: they are always portrayed with simple photographs. But there must be an art catalog of Big Sur cyclists somewhere.

The only other person in the Hike or Bike area was Shane. I had expected to meet fewer cyclists as I got closer to the PCH closure. Shane was going south and turning back. That was an option for him because he lived not far to the north, making it an out-and-back ride. When I think about living in an area I find so special, I have mixed feelings. Would easy access to great experiences turn the exotic into the mundane? Or would my life be elevated by having this kind of experience often? I expect the former, but given the chance I would take the risk that it would be the latter.

Shane was quiet, but we talked more as we got settled in. He was a very fit rider traveling with a two-wheel utility trailer and wanted to get bags for his bike instead. He had a lot of equipment questions, and I was happy to talk tech about our bikes and gear. My old titanium Airborne Carpe Diem bike and bikepacking style bags garner a lot of attention. I think they also give me some cred so people listen to my advice and usually ask more as I tell them more.

Shane was staying at the park for a couple of days, which seemed like a good idea. Of all the places I might spend extra time on the ride, Big Sur would be on the top of my list, but tied with a few others. I was already beginning to plan a return trip to the coast now that I felt confident in my gear and ability to accommodate my sleep apnea.

Big Sur was thankfully dry. The dampness of Monterey had much of my gear soaking wet. My tent dried out quickly; I set up a clothes line and took care of other housekeeping. My sleep kit and I were getting along well. I fell asleep early and slept hard and long, which I did pretty much every night of my ride. And that was good, because the next day’s ride to Kirk Creek Campground started with a relentless climb out of the valley. But more on that in the next blog.

Loading map…
Distance
34.15 mi
Elevation gain
+2,337 ft
Elevation loss
−2,507 ft
Max elevation
680 ft
Waypoints
0
Elevation profile